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March 6, 2016

As befits a work with the title “Hungry,” food is prepared — ardently and aromatically — in the wonderful new play written and directed by Richard Nelson, which opened on Friday night at the Public Theater. Yet it is unlikely that the ratatouille and apple crumble on offer will satisfy the appetites of the five women and one man assembled in a snug kitchen in Rhinebeck, N.Y. The hunger being experienced here, which pervades this exquisitely acted production like scents from a laden stove, can’t be assuaged by second helpings. Though they are hardly poor or homeless, the inhabitants of Mr. Nelson’s latest offering are still starved — for stability, a promise that they aren’t alone and the reassurance that the familiar town and country in which they have lived for so many years isn’t disappearing as they speak.

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